Iquique

Expect: Casinos and surf, paragliding and sand, ghost towns and shopping malls. 

Pack: Sun glasses, boardies, and a laid-back (yet adventurous) attitude.

“No, I am not a professional paraglider”, I was forced to answer to yet another nosy Chilean at the bus terminal. I had discovered that people in Chile tend to make a quick assumption when you tell them you are going to Iquique. The city's incredible reputation for paragliding precedes it. This has meant, however, that many overlook its other numerous perks. I found Iquique’s easy atmosphere addictive and the diverse characters that flock here awesomely refreshing. A great place for surfing, sandboarding, gambling, shopping or just hanging out; Iquique is one of Chile’s most up and coming tourist destinations. 

Wedged between infinite blue and never-ending yellow, Iquique occupies one of the most staggering and isolated settings in South America. To the East stretches the powerful Pacific, while to the West the steep cliffs of the Atacama serve as the city’s walls. Beyond these cliffs lies the sandy emptiness of the world’s driest desert, dotted with ghost towns from Chile’s nitrate days (see video). Iquique is Chile’s intriguing answer to both Las Vegas and San Francisco. With its remote location, busy casinos, fast nightlife, long beaches and excellent surf (for Chile), Iquique is a great place to spend a few days. 

In recent years a lot of money and time has gone into developing Iquique’s beachfront and tourist infrastructure; with considerable success. The beaches are clean, the walkways are lined with lush vegetation, and down by the university you can even find some quality beach-side bars and restaurants. The city’s dramatic history, which saw it change almost overnight from wealthy and influential Nitrate capital to isolated and impoverished town in the 1930s, gives the place an invigorating sense of character and pride. The old plaza provides a glimpse into Iquique’s lucrative past. The clock tower, theatre and Casino Español stand out as amongst the most phenomenal buildings you will see anywhere in Chile. 

As you wander through the old-town you might find yourself wondering, as I did, why there are so few shops. The answer is simple. Almost all of Iquique’s shops (except for food) are located in the huge and haphazard duty free shopping zone, known as ZOFRI. In this vast maze of small shops choice ranges from the usual (perfume and alcohol), to the useful (branded clothing, electronics and outdoor equipment) to the downright bizarre (car exhausts, lampshades and Indian toys).  It is definitely worth a visit, if just to watch frenzied Chileans rushing around with huge bags full of goodies. It is worth being aware that most of the stuff is no cheaper than at home; so make sure you make the conversion before buying. However, it is substantially cheaper than anywhere else in Chile (and most of South America) so if you’re planning to stick around long term here is a good place to pick stuff up.