Rosario, Santa Fe

Expect: Surprisingly little ‘Che’ Guevara memorabilia, beautiful parks, river-beaches and ice cream.

Pack: Argentina shirt with 10 Messi on the back, Che Guevara by Jon Lee Anderson, and swim-shorts.

Rosario

Rosario is Argentina’s third largest city, and many visitors find it just the right size. With just under a million inhabitants Rosario is small enough to be accessible, but big enough to keep you busy.  Young and vibrant, it is a rare blend of laid back beach-town and bustling metropolis. The majestic Río Paraná, which dominates the city, is the key to this unlikely combination. Historically monopolised by the agricultural export business, today Rosario’s long waterfront, la costanera, is sprinkled with classy restaurants and contemporary galleries. The riverside turns from grassy park into sandy beaches (with excellent swimming) as you head north from the centre of town, and is busy with Rosarinos jogging, or just relaxing - soaking in the rays with a mate and a friend. It is this great river that gives Rosario both its economic prosperity and its great, chilled-out ambience.

Rosario, as the local inhabitants will doubtless remind you, is a significant town in Argentine history. It is the birthplace of the national flag, ‘Che’ Guevara and, more recently, football superstar Lionel Messi. The flag is honoured in spectacular fashion by the Monumento a la Bandera, an enormous Grecian-like stone structure which stands proudly overlooking the riverfront. For the best views of the monument, visit in the evening when it stands illumined in icy blue.

The legendary revolutionary, Ernesto ‘Che’ Guevara was born on the 14 June 1928. His first home was an apartment building on Calle Entre Rios, in the centre of Rosario. However, Che-natics will find less memorabilia here than they might have hoped. Not only did the later Commandanté only occupy this flat for a very short time (before moving to Cordoba), it is now privately owned. DO NOT RING THE DOORBELL. The current inhabitants are apparently (fancy that) not particularly tolerant of visitors demanding to see the home of their T-shirted hero. In order to protect the sanity of the apartment owners, a Monumento al Che Guevara has been built in the south of the city. However, it is too far out of the way, and too boring, for many to bother trekking out to see it.   

Rosario’s influence is not only limited to the past. It remains wickedly vibrant, attracting authors, bands and artists from all over the world. The long term socialist local government put much needed money into renovating old theatres and cinemas, organising concerts and exhibitions, meaning that Rosario has one of the fullest cultural calendars in the land. 

During the day, Rosario’s hub is the pedestrianised Calle Cordoba. This main shopping street is home to all the major brands as well as some pleasant cafés, restaurants and bookshops. In the evenings, however, the bustle of the city moves to Avenida Pellegrini, where a seemingly endless selection of parillas lines the street. Pop into anyone of them, you will eat well; I assure you.

Rosario is one those rarest of finds; a friendly, accessible and personal city, with all the atmosphere and activity you'd expect from a population of just over a million.