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This mountain city of St. Bernards, chocolate, and wooden chalets that gaze out on to the crystal-blue Lago Nahuel Huapi, is unlike anywhere in South America.
Expect: Stunning mountain views, chocolate and St. Bernards.
Pack: Ski gear (or trekking gear in summer), camera and money.
Bariloche
This mountain city of St. Bernards, chocolate, and wooden chalets that gaze out on to the delicious, crystal-blue Lago Nahuel Huapi, is unlike anywhere in South America. “Are we still in Argentina?”, I heard one lost backpacking soul whisper to his neighbour as he emerged from the bus, rubbing the sleep from his eyes. Bariloche might look, feel, taste (and cost) like the Swiss Alps but it in fact lies in the Argentine Lake District, at the foot of the Andes that tower all around it. Most famous as a winter resort, the neighbouring peak, Cerro Catedral, hosts some of the best skiing on the continent. Even in summer Bariloche is far from deserted as the nature buffs move in. Excellent trails, fishing and mountain biking ensures that this classy adventure spot is busy all year round.
Bariloche’s deserved popularity, with both domestic and foreign tourists, has driven the growth the town has enjoyed. The last few decades has seen a cute mountain town grow into a city, in the mountains, with a cute ‘historic’ centre. Great views, restaurants, shopping and nightlife still make this a smooth place to hang out, especially if you're emerging from the Patagonian wilderness and fancy some town comforts. You won’t know what’s hit you; so many colourful and beautiful things. But if shopping and eating isn’t what you want to do, keep on your feet, and hit the amazing scenery just outside Bariloche.
When you fancy a day trip to a less touristy part of the region, head to El Bolson. This secluded spot, in a fantastically green mountain valley, was once the hippie capital of Argentina is only a stunning three hour bus ride away. There are still a few around and you will catch them moaning into their mate about how the village has gone to the dogs. Most people don’t think so though – it just got clean and started attracting normal people with actual jobs. But the small independent production of chocolates, cheeses, beers and jams (started in the 70’s and 80’s) still continues, as do the many sustainable living communities. They give the place a deliciously alternative taste and feel.